Day 21: Viñales

The drive from Habana to Viñales took just over two hours. It was a pretty drive, big green trees, palm trees and lakes, interspersed with farmlands of rice, maize and cattle. We saw water buffalo in some of the wetland areas.

Our first stop was at Rancho Las Barringonas. There was a beautiful pink hotel and a view to die for. The green, fertile valley was dotted with bulbous limestone cliffs that look like giant haystacks above tobacco plantations and natural vegetation. This part of the Sierra de los Organos mountain range is the perfect setting for a cold pina colada, so that’s what we did, sipped delicious cocktails, while taking in the spectacular view.

We then headed down into the valley to Benito Camejo Nodarse’s farm. Him and his family own one of the private farms in Cuba. It is less than 25 acres and on it they farm mainly tobacco but also coffee, sugar and fruit. 90% of their tobacco crop is taken by the government, they however have a thriving sideline business in tourism. They showed us how to make Cuban cigars, gave us espressos and rum to drink and naturally we bought their cigars and coffee beans.

We then visited caves in the area. Our first bit of entertainment was when a local creole native grabbed Jean, she yelled (we laughed) and proceeded with some sort of ceremony, I sure they are now married. Then his mate put this massive cane rat on her head, she yelled, we laughed, then took turns with this cute rodent crawling over us.

Then off to the caves, after negotiating our way through narrow tunnels and around stalagmites and stalactites we came upon an underground river, where we were taken on a boat ride to an underground waterfall. It was one of those long, Victoria Falls type falls (obviously much smaller) but loud underground and a first for us.

The boat exited through a slit of a cave exit into the sunlight. We were then treated to a creole lunch in an open air restaurant.

We visited Niñales town, it was well maintained and clean. We bought curios at the local market before embarking on our long drive home. Jean was in serious need of fruit, so we stopped at a farm stall, where we bought mangoes, pineapple and bananas and that was dinner. The fruit here is tasty, fresh and delicious.

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