Day 20: Havana, Cuba

I wasn’t sure what to expect of Cuba, yet what we found today, and I’m sure in the days to come, was totally unexpected. I feel there is a life cycle to this island and it is nearing the end of the cocoon phase with the butterfly about to emerge. So this is an important time to experience this country. Trapped behind the old facades of the buildings may be beautiful homes, where the owners can afford to make it so.

Cuba appears to be emerging out of its communist time warp, which in many ways was more economic, than socio-cultural. We saw evidence of churches and cathedrals that were in no way damaged, in fact they have been well preserved. The people are spiritual, they call themselves atheists but have an Afrocuban belief, where they worship Saints – it appears to be a combination of Catholicism and African folklore, as this was a large slave trading area back in the day.

Politically, the names of Raul and Fidel Castro and Guevara are at the forefront of all historical and political conversations. Free schooling, medical, housing, no taxes and cheap essential amenities are order of the day but since privatisation became legal in 2010, 400 000 of the 2 million people own private concerns and obviously they pay taxes to the state, in Havana. The average state paid salary is the same for all, from doctors to taxi drivers, and is around $50 per month. It is no wonder there is a huge culture of bartering and black market trade going on. From our observation, it is predominately the younger generation that are seeking out capitalistic opportunities, although they don’t admit to it.

State Housing is a concept we had to get our capitalist heads around. The state is responsible for maintaining the facades, hence lots of nice areas look tatty and dirty, the insides are the responsibility of the people living there. They are usually occupied by 3 generations and have been in the family for a couple of generations. People rarely move or have a desire to move and if they do, it will be a swop with another family.

This morning Olgieta and her husband (their daughter is the owner of our apartment) arrived with a typical Cuban breakfast of fresh fruit, eggs and croquettes and deliciously brewed coffee.

Enrique and Michael picked us up at 9am. We drove past the old fort and went on a walking tour of Old Havana, visting the historic plazas. One would have been forgiven for thinking you were in one of the historic towns in Europe – Italy, Spain or Portugal. This area has been declared a UNESCO world heritage site and thankfully lots of restoration has been, and is still being done, to the magnificent buildings in these grandiose squares with their cobbled streets. It tells the story of a bygone era of great opulence.

We visited the governors and deputy governors houses, OMG so much for Communism. We went into this beautiful old cathedral and museums and art galleries. Entrance to all these places is free, you could spend weeks exploring beautiful Old Havana. No vehicles are permitted in the area, so a gentle stroll down the streets and alleyways are order of the day. Down one of the alleys we spotted a flag of Nelson Mandela on one of the of the buildings. It turned out to be the African Museum and they were commentating the 100 year anniversary of Madiba’s birth. This was a special and poignant place for us.

oAfter a great lunch at Dona Eutimia Restaurant, with two street musicians as entertainment, we headed off to Central Park. Most of the buildings have been restored and cleaned but those that have not are a stark contrast and one has to be immensely greatful to UNESCO for ensuring the survival of historical areas, not only here but all around the world. The most beautiful building I think I have ever seen was the Alicia Alonso Theatre in this square. It hosts shows and ballet companies from around the world. Next to this building they are in the process of cleaning the dome to the Capital Hill building, a replica of the one in Washington, except for one feature, this building is 5cm taller (don’t tell Trump).

This ‘affluent’ centre is teaming with the beautiful old cars and it was from here we were picked up by Didong in his red and white convertible ’58 Chev Bel Air. I was so excited about this ride, pity it was so dam hot.

We drove through Revolution Square, the Plaza de la Revolucion, the Diplomatic Areas, Vedado and Miramar, where you find big houses and embassies, and stopped at a rain forest park. The trees were huge and the vegetation green and lush, unfortunately the river was dirty and smelly. We drove past the big Colon Cemetry and stopped in the most fascinating area. A time warp haven of artistry, where an artist named Fusta, has spent the last 25 years, tiling and mosaicing houses and walls, even bus stops in his area. This area was bizarre and fascinating, well worth a visit, just glad he is not my neighbor.

We arrived home hot and tired after a long day. It had started to rain, so we made a bee line for the closest little restaurant a block away from us for a quick meal, not our best in Cuba.